Safety Glasses
Nitrile Gloves
Drain Pan
Ratchets
Sockets
Shop Towels
Water Pump
Coolant/Antifreeze
Today, we’ll be changing the water pump on this 2012 Ford F-150, and procedures will be similar on a lot of 5-liter F-150s from 2009 to 2014, but be sure to know the specifics for your truck before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable doing this yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area
Step 1: Place the Drain Pan and Let the Engine Cool
Park on a flat surface and wait for the engine to cool down. Once the engine has cooled, place a drain pan under the radiator petcock.
Step 2: Open the Radiator Petcock
Open the radiator petcock and allow the coolant to drain into the drain pan.
Step 3: Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal
Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal from battery.
Step 4: Remove the Air Intake Tube
Disconnect the hoses and electrical connector and then remove the air intake tube.
Step 5: Loosen the Water Pump Pulley Bolts
To remove the alternator belt, loosen the four water pump pulley bolts.
|
Do It Right: While the alternator belt is still in place, it provides the needed tension against the pulley to keep it from spinning while removing the bolts. |
Step 6: Remove the Serpentine Belt
Once the water pump pulley bolts are loosened, use a 13mm socket on a breaker bar or ratchet to rotate the belt tensioner counterclockwise. Once the belt tensioner is rotated, remove the belt from the pulleys.
|
Do It Right: Your Ford may be equipped with two serpentine belts, one of which runs the AC compressor. Now is a good time to remove the AC belt to prevent coolant from getting on it. Before removing the belt, you’ll need to remove the alternator tensioner. |
Step 7: Remove the Alternator Tensioner
Remove the alternator belt tensioner with a 13mm socket.
Step 8: Remove the AC Belt
Remove the AC belt by inserting your breaker bar or ratchet into the AC belt tensioner and rotate clockwise. Once the tensioner is rotated, you can remove the AC belt.
Step 9: Remove the Thermostat Housing Bolts
Now you can remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat and housing.
Step 10: Disconnect the Thermostat from the Radiator Hoses
If you are replacing the thermostat, disconnect it from the upper and lower radiator hoses.
|
Do It Right: Now is a good time to replace your radiator hoses. |
Step 11: Disconnect the Heater Outlet Hose
Disconnect the heater outlet hose from the tube, as well as loosening the clamp and disconnecting the de-gas bottle to the engine hose from the heater outlet.
Step 12: Remove the Water Pump Pulley
Finish removing the four bolts from the water pump pulley.
Step 13: Remove the Water Pump Bolts
Remove the four remaining bolts from the water pump.
|
Do It Right: You should also remove the heater outlet tube retaining bolt that holds the heater outlet tube from your old water pump so you can reuse it on the new pump. |
Step 14: Remove the Water Pump
After the four water pump bolts are removed, the water pump can be removed from the engine.
Step 15: Remove the Old O-ring Seal
At this point, you can detach the heater outlet tube, remove the old O-ring seal, and discard the seal.
Step 16: Inspect the Sealing Surfaces
Inspect the sealing surfaces of the new water pump and the engine and clean them to ensure both surfaces are smooth.
Step 17: Ensure the Larger O-ring is Positioned Correctly
If not already installed on your new water pump, ensure the larger supplied O-ring is seated around the sealing area of the water pump
Step 18: Install the Water Pump and Bolts
Now you’re ready to install the water pump to the block and finger-tighten the four mounting bolts. These should then be torqued in two stages: first to 177 inch pounds, and then another 60⁰ past.
Step 19: Reinstall the Heater Outlet Tube
Reinstall the heater outlet tube using a new o-ring, and lubricate the ring with clean engine coolant. Install and tighten the heater outlet tube retaining bolt to 89 inch pounds.
Step 20: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing
Reinstall the thermostat housing with a new gasket using the two bolts that were removed and tighten to 89 inch pounds.
Step 21: Reinstall the Water Pump Pulley
Reinstall the water pump pulley and finger-tighten the four bolts.
Step 22: Reattach the De-gas Bottle Hose
Connect the de-gas bottle hose to the heater outlet and reinstall the clamp.
Step 23: Reinstall the Heater Outlet Hose
After the de-gas bottle hose is connected, reinstall the heater outlet hose to the heater outlet tube.
Step 24: Reinstall the Alternator Tensioner
Now you can reinstall your alternator tensioner. After the tensioner is installed, you can reinstall your accessory belt and AC belt if it was removed.
|
Do It Right: Any excess coolant should be rinsed from the pulleys using clean water before reinstalling them. |
Step 25: Reroute the AC Belt
First route the AC belt according to the routing diagram in your truck. Complete the routing except for the one pulley, then use your breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt around the last remaining pulley.
Step 26: Reroute the Serpentine Belt
Next, route the belt connected to your alternator according to the routing diagram for your truck. Complete the routing except one pulley, then use your breaker bar and 13mm socket to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt around the last remaining pulley.
Step 27: Tighten the Water Pump Pulley Bolts
Once the belt is installed, you can tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 18 foot points, doing so in a crisscrossing pattern.
Step 28: Reinstall the Air Intake Tube
Reinstall the air intake tube, electrical connectors and hoses.
Step 29: Reconnect the Battery
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Step 30: Fill the Cooling System
Fill the cooling system.
Step 31: Remove the Drain Pan and Start the Vehicle
Remove the drain pan and start your vehicle. Let the vehicle warm up to operating temperature with the heater on. If the heater is blowing warm air, turn the truck off and check the coolant level. Add coolant as needed and then close the hood.
