How to Replace the Rear Shocks on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape

Your Ford Escape’s rear shock absorbers help dampen the suspension’s movement to provide a smooth ride and ensure the suspension is stable. Replacing worn shock absorbers on your 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape is a straightforward repair that can improve vehicle balance, handling, tire wear, and the overall ride quality. If your Ford’s shock absorbers are failing, you might notice excessive rocking, poor handling, oil leaks near the upper shock tube or shaft seal, knocking noises, damaged rubber bushings, or longer braking times. Exposure to high temperatures and other weather-related conditions can also lead to failing shock absorbers with time, and they should be replaced as soon as you suspect a problem to prevent tire and suspension damage. It’s recommended that you inspect or replace your shocks every 50,000 miles, and both shock absorbers on your Escape should be replaced at the same time since they have experienced the same amount of use. Our helpful video and step-by-step instructions can help you replace your 2008-2012 Ford Escape’s rear shock absorbers

Tools & Materials

Safety Eye Glasses Safety Glasses
Protective Gloves Nitrile Gloves
set of rear shocks Rear Shocks
ratchet set with case Ratchet & Sockets
set of red trim tools Trim Tool
breaker bar Breaker Bar
locking pliers Locking Pliers
lug wrench Lug Wrench
bottle of brake cleaner Brake Cleaner
box of blue shop towels Shop Towels
torque wrench Torque Wrench

Step-by-Step Instructions to Replace the Rear Shocks on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape

Today, we’ll be working on this 2008 Escape XLT, and procedures will be similar for this model from 2008 to 2012, but be sure to know the specifics for your vehicle before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable doing this yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area.
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Prepare Your Vehicle

Charles from O’Reilly Auto Parts removing the scruff plate from the back of a 2008 Ford Escape

Step 1: Remove the Rear Scuff Plate

First, park on a level surface. Open the back hatch and remove the rear scuff plate by starting at one end and lifting up on it gently from one side to the other to disengage the tabs. After disengaged, set aside the rear scuff plate.
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Carpet being removed from the back of the Ford Escape and the seats in a released position

Step 2: Remove the Carpet and Release the Back Seats

Take out the carpet from the back, then pull the release for the back seats and lean forward.
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Charles slowly removing the plastic quarter panel from the back of the 2008 Ford Escape

Step 3: Remove the Quarter Panel

You’ll be able to access the first tab of the quarter panel from inside of the back door. Lift up on the scuff plate to disengage this retainer. Then, go back to the rear of the vehicle. Use your hands, and a trim tool if needed, to begin disengaging the rear quarter panel from the body of the vehicle on the side where you will be working first. Once the tabs are disengaged, you should be able to remove the panel.
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Remove the Old Rear Shock Absorber

Mechanic using a breaker bar to remove the nut and washer on the bottom of the shock absorber

Step 4: Remove the Bottom Nut Securing the Shock

Under the vehicle, use a 15/16 socket and breaker bar to remove the bottom nut securing the shock.

Do It Right: It’s ok to take the nut and washer off, but leave the bottom of the shock in place on the bolt.

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O’Reilly Auto Parts mechanic using a wrench to loosen and remove the nut and bushing from the top of the shock

Step 5: Remove the Upper Nut and Bushing from the Shock

Back at the top of the shock, use a pair of locking pliers to secure the stud and a wrench or ratcheting box wrench to loosen the nut. Take off the nut and bushing.
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Mechanic pulling old shock out from under the vehicle

Step 6: Remove the Old Shock

It’s now safe to slip the bottom of the shock off the bolt and remove it from under the vehicle.
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Install the New Rear Shock Absorber

Charles from O’Reilly Auto Parts wiping down surfaces with brake cleaner

Step 7: Wipe Mounting Surface, Nuts, Bolts, and Washers with Brake Cleaner

Use a rag to wipe down the mounting surface at the top and some brake cleaner on a rag to clean the bolt, nut, and washer that secure the bottom of the shock.
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New and old shocks laying side by side

Step 8: Compare the Old and New Shocks

Set the old shock next to your new shock to make sure you have the right replacement.

Do It Right: There may be a slight difference in length due to different types of internal rebound bumpers or support springs, but it won’t affect performance.

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Charles from O’Reilly Auto Parts compressing the new shock absorber

Step 9: Prime the Shock Absorber

Before installation, it’s a good idea to prime the shock absorber by fully compressing and letting it extend on its own 4-5 times. This will ensure that the gas and oil are in the proper position inside the shock, and can help prevent unwanted noise when you start driving with the new shocks in place.

Do It Right: Be sure to have the shock upright with the dust boot or metal shield at the top when priming and when installing.

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Mechanic sliding the washer and bushing onto the stud of the new shock

Step 10: Install the Washer and Bushing

Slide on the washer and bushing at the top of the shock.
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Mechanic under the vehicle sliding the bottom end of the shock onto the bolt

Step 11: Place the New Shock into Position

Move the shock up into place through the opening in the body and compress it slightly to slip it onto the bolt at the bottom.
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Charles finger-tightening the nut to the bottom shock bolt

Step 12: Install Washer and Nut to Secure the Bottom Part of the Shock

Put on the washer and the nut, then finger-tighten it.
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Mechanic using locking pliers and a wrench to tighten top nut

Step 13: Install the Top Bushing and Nut

Back at the top of the shock, put the bushing and nut in place. Use your locking pliers and wrench or ratcheting box wrench to tighten the nut while keeping the shock from spinning. Once it’s snug, use your torque wrench to tighten the nut to 30 foot pounds.
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Charles using a torque wrench to secure the bottom nut of the shock

Step 14: Tighten the Bottom Nut

Back under the vehicle, since we’ve left the tires on the ground, the suspension is at ride height and we can tighten the nut at the bottom of the shock to 129 foot pounds.
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Charles putting the quarter panel back into position in the rear of the 2008 Ford Escape

Step 15: Reinstall the Quarter Panel

Now that the shock is installed, position the quarter panel back against the body of the vehicle and start snapping it back into place. Except in unusual circumstances, shocks should be changed in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side.

Do It Right: Make sure the weatherstrip overlaps the trim properly.

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Charles using a trim tool to install scuff plate and check weatherstrips

Step 16: Snap the Rear Scuff Plate into Place

Snap the scuff plate into place and again, check the weatherstrip to make sure it overlays properly.
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Reinstall the carpet and push the seats back into position

Step 17: Replace the Carpet and Raise Seats

Put the carpet back in and push the seats back into place. Then, close the hatch.
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Additional Resources

ford escape air filter

How to Replace the Air Filter on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape
ford escape tail light

How to Change the Tail Light on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape
changing cabin air filter

How to Replace the Cabin Air Filter on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape
These instructions and video detail a rear shock absorber replacement on 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, and 2012 Ford Escape models. Replacing worn shock absorbers can help you maintain a healthy suspension system, which may prevent accidents or premature wear on suspension parts and tires. If you notice oil leaks near the shock tube or shaft seal, knocking noises, excessive rocking, increased braking time, squatting when accelerating, or poor handling, it is important to replace the rear shock absorbers as soon as possible.

The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.
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