Safety Glasses
Nitrile Gloves
Brake Pads
Brake Rotors
Jack Stands
Jack
Ratchet and Sockets
Caliper Hanger
Brake Cleaner
Brake Fluid
Rust Penetrant
Silicone Grease
Shop Towels
Caliper Piston Tool
Today, we’ll be changing the front brake pads and rotors on this 2008 Civic Si, and procedures will be similar on these models from 2006 to 2011, but be sure to know the specifics for your vehicle before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable doing this yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area.
Step 1: Loosen the Lug Nuts
Park on a level surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Jack Up the Car and Put it on Jack Stands
Jack up the front end of the vehicle and put it on jack stands.
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Do It Right: For more information on how to safely jack up your vehicle, check out another one of O’Reilly Auto Parts’ videos: How to Safely Jack Up Your Vehicle |
Step 3: Remove the Lug Nuts and Take Off the Wheel
Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. Turning the steering wheel can help you access the caliper you’re working on a little more easily.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper Bolts
Secure the bottom caliper pin with a 19mm wrench and remove the bolt with a 12mm socket, being careful not to damage the pin boot. Use the same wrench and socket to remove the top bolt as well.
Step 5: Remove the Caliper from the Rotor
Once these bolts are removed, pull the caliper from the rotor and use your caliper hanger to suspend the caliper and keep pressure off of the brake line.
Step 6: Remove the Brake Pads from the Bracket
Take the brake pads out of the bracket and set aside.
Step 7: Remove the Brake Caliper Bracket
Use a 17mm socket to remove the brake caliper bracket bolts. Once removed, you should be able to remove the caliper bracket.
Step 8: Spray Screws with Rust Penetrant
With the bracket out of the way, the brake rotor can now be removed. The rotor is likely held in place by two screws that may be difficult to remove, so spray them with rust penetrant first.
Step 9: Remove the Screws from the Rotor
Using an impact screwdriver to remove the screws makes this a little easier as well.
Step 10: Remove the Old Brake Rotor
Once you’ve removed the screws, the rotor can be pulled off the hub.
Step 11: Clean the New Rotor with Brake Cleaner
Use brake cleaner and a rag or shop towel to wipe down the friction surface of your new brake rotor.
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Do It Right: Brake cleaner will strip paint, so be careful to keep it away from any painted surface when you spray it. |
Step 12: Clean the Brake Hub
Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the wheel hub of any rust or debris.
Step 13: Apply Silicone Grease to the Hub
Apply some 100% silicone grease to the hub. Once applied, you are ready to put your new rotor into place.
Step 14: Install the New Brake Rotor
Put the new rotor in place onto the hub. If you’ll be reinstalling the two screws, be sure to orient the rotor accordingly so that the holes are in alignment with the holes on the hub.
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Do It Right: It isn’t necessary to reuse these screws. You can use a lug nut to keep the rotor in place while you work if needed. |
Step 15: Remove the Guide Pins from the Caliper Bracket
Before reinstalling your caliper mounting bracket, remove the guide pins and wipe off the old grease.
Step 16: Apply Silicone Grease to the Pins
Apply silicone grease to the guide pins. If the pins are pitted or rusty, they should be replaced.
Step 17: Reinstall the Guide Pins
Reinstall the guide pins, making sure they’re pushed all the way into the bracket and check the boots to make sure they are not cracked or damaged.
Step 18: Remove the Old Hardware Clips
Remove the old hardware clips from the brake caliper bracket. Clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner where the hardware clips and pads will sit. Then, inspect it for rust before reinstalling. If the bracket is rusty where the pads or the brake hardware ride, it needs to be replaced.
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Do It Right: Do not use a steel brush on it. |
Step 19: Install New Hardware Clips
Install the new hardware clips.
Step 20: Reinstall the Brake Caliper Bracket
Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket using your two 17mm bolts and torque the bolts to 80 foot pounds.
Step 21: Apply Silicone Grease to New Brake Pad’s Contact Points
Now, put a small amount of silicone grease on the contact point of your new brake pads.
Step 22: Install the New Brake Pads
Once the silicone grease has been applied, install the brake pads into the bracket.
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Do It Right: Be careful not to get any grease on the friction surfaces of the rotor of pads. Make sure the pads are flat against the rotors. |
Step 23: Attach and Open the Bleeder Tool
First, remove your caliper from the hanger and be sure to remove the hanger from the wheel well. Attach the bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve by turning it counter-clockwise.
Step 24: Compress the Brake Caliper
Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp or brake caliper compressor tool. Use an old brake pad to protect the piston. When you’re done, the piston should be flush with the housing.
Step 25: Clean the Caliper with Brake Cleaner
Re-tighten the bleeder valve, being careful not to let any air into the line. Remove the tool and old brake pad and clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag. If the rubber boot is cracked or if there is brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced.
Step 26: Reinstall the Brake Caliper
Position the caliper in the bracket and put the bolts back in place by hand. Then, use a 19mm wrench and 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 25 foot pounds. Be careful not to damage the pin boot.
Step 27: Replace the Other Front Brake Pad and Rotor
Except in unusual circumstances, you should always change brake pads and rotors in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side.
Step 28: Reinstall Your Wheels
Straighten your steering wheel back out to reinstall your wheels. Then, finger-tighten the lug nuts so that the wheels are flush against the rotors.
Step 29: Lower the Vehicle and Tighten the Lug Nuts
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to eighty foot pounds.
Step 30: Check Brakes and Fluid Levels
Once the job is complete, before you drive anywhere, be sure to pump your brake pedal several times until you feel the pressure return. It should feel the way it did before the brake job.
Some brake fluid was pushed out when you compressed your pistons, so check your master cylinder and add fluid as needed.
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Do It Right: If your brake pedal does feel spongy, you probably have air in one or both of your front brake lines. Here’s a link to a video on how to bleed those lines to remove the air: How to Bleed Brakes |
The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.