How to Replace the Front Struts on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape

This video and instructions explain how to replace the front struts on a 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 Ford Escape. Maintaining healthy struts is crucial to maintaining your vehicle’s suspension system, as they help stabilize your Ford’s handling, braking, and more. Signs that your strut assembly is worn out includes excessive rocking, poor handling, prolonged braking time, bottoming out, or if you notice cupping wear on your tires. Failing struts should be replaced as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your Escape’s suspension system or tires.


Tools & Materials List

Step by Step Instructions:

Tools & Materials

How to Replace the Front Struts on a 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape

The struts on the front of your Ford Escape are a structural component that helps absorb energy from the suspension system to limit abrupt movement when driving. Repairing faulty struts on your 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape is a service that can improve the comfort of driving your vehicle. Struts can affect the handling, braking, alignment, tire wear, and overall ride of your Ford. High heat, weather, and deterioration can lead to worn strut assemblies, and failing struts should be changed to avoid damage to your tires and rest of your suspension. It’s advised that you inspect your Escape’s struts every 50,000 miles, and they should always be replaced in pairs since they have likely experienced the same amount of wear. Our detailed instructions and educational video can help you perform a front strut replacement on your 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape.

If you’re not completely comfortable doing this yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area.

Prepare Your Vehicle

Chris uses a socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.

Step 1: Prepare Your Car

Park on a level surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a socket.
Side-by-side photos 1) Close-up on Chris chocking the rear wheels. 2) Chris uses a floor jack to lift the front end of the Escape. 3) Close-up shot of the jack stand holding the front end of the vehicle.

Step 2: Lift the Front End

Chock the rear tires, jack up the front end and put it on stands.
Side-by-side photos: 1) Chris removes the lug nuts from the Escape’s front wheels. 2) Chris removes the front tires. 3) Close-up shot of Chris spraying rust penetrant on the nuts and bolts that will be removed. 4) The Ford Escape’s hood is propped open.

Step 3: Remove the Wheels

Using your socket wrench, remove the lug nut and take off the front wheels.

Do It Right: Take a moment to spray rust penetrant on the nuts that need to be removed. Lift the hood and spray the four upper bushing nuts as well.

Side-by-side photos: 1) The floor jack, under the control arm, lifts the side of the vehicle that Chris plans on working on. 2) The same photo, but from a different angle.

Step 4: Raise the Side

Use your floor jack to lift the side where you’ll be working. Slide the jack under the control arm and lift the side slightly off the stand.

Remove Old Strut Assembly

Side-by-side close-up photos: 1) Chris uses a flathead to remove the brake jounce hose clip. 2) Chris uses a socket wrench to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor harness bolt.

Step 5: Remove the Hose Clip and Sensor

Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the brake jounce hose clip. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor harness bolt with a 10mm socket.
Close-up shot of Chris using a 14mm wrench and a 5mm Allen wrench to loosen the upper stabilizer bar link nut.

Step 6: Remove Stabilizer Bar Link Nut

Loosen the upper stabilizer bar link nut using a 14mm wrench and spraying rust penetrant and turn it until the stud starts to spin. You’ll use a 5mm Allen wrench to secure the stud and continue loosening the nut until the nut is removed. Once the nut is removed, the stud can be slipped out.
Close-up shot of Chris using a breaker bar and socket to loosen the strut’s bottom nuts and bolts.

Step 7: Loosen the Bottom Nuts and Bolts

Use an 18mm socket wrench and breaker bar to loosen the bottom nuts and bolts of the strut assembly.
Side-by-side photos: 1) Close-up shot of Chris using a hammer and a punch to start the bolts out. 2) Chris uses the floor jack under the Escape’s control arm to lower the side of the vehicle that was being worked on.

Step 8: Lower Vehicle Side

Use a hammer and punch to start the bolts out. Lower the floor jack so that the vehicle rests on the stands. Leave the bottom bolts in place for now.
 Side-by-side photo: 1) Chris removes the old strut from the vehicle. 2) Same photo but from a different angle. 3) Old and new strut are next to each other to compare the difference between old and new.

Step 9: Remove Nuts and Bolts

In the engine bay, use a 14mm socket wrench to remove the four upper bushing nuts and the loosened bottom bolts. After this, you should be able to lift the old strut assembly from the wheel well.

Do It Right: Compare the new strut assembly to the old one to make sure you’ve got the right part. As a reminder, we recommend replacing your struts in pairs, so make sure to repeat the previous steps on the other side of your vehicle.

Installing New Strut Assembly

Chris holds up the new strut, ready to be installed. Next using a red cloth to wipe the area where the nuts and bolts will be threaded in the assembly. Nuts and bolts threaded but have not been torqued yet.

Step 10: Position New Strut Assembly

Position the new assembly in the wheel well, making sure the bracket at the bottom is toward the outside of the vehicle. Once in place, thread the upper bushing nuts to keep the assembly in place but don’t torque them yet.
1) Close-up shot of Chris re-threading the strut’s bottom bolts. 2) Close-up shot of Chris torqueing the strut’s bottom nuts and bolts using a socket wrench and wrench.

Step 11: Install Strut Assembly’s Bottom Nuts and Bolts

Install the two strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts at the bottom of the assembly.
The floor jack, located under the Escape’s control arm, lowers the vehicle to apply weight to the suspension.

Step 12: Put Weight On The Suspension Again

Use your floor jack under the control arm to lift the vehicle off the stands and put the weight of the vehicle on the suspension again.
Both photos show Chris using a torque wrench and a 14mm socket to tighten the upper bushing and the bottom nuts of the strut assembly.

Step 13: Tighten the Strut’s Upper Nuts and Bolts

Using a torque wrench and 14mm socket, tighten the upper bushing nuts to 30 foot pounds. Use your 18mm socket with a wrench securing the bolts to torque the bottom nuts to 85 foot pounds.
1) Chris uses a torque wrench to reinstall the upper stabilizer bar link nut. 2) Chris reinstalls the ABS wheel speed sensor.

Step 14: Reinstall Parts

Reinstall the upper stabilizer bar link nut and the ABS wheel speed sensor. Torque the link nut to 46 foot pounds and the sensor to 11 foot pounds. Use a small hammer to tap the brake jounce hose clip back into place.
1) Chris puts the wheels back in place. 2) Close-up shot of Chris hand-tightening the wheel lug nuts. 3) Close-up shot of Chris using the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Replace the Wheels

Put the wheels back in place and hand-tighten the lug nuts, making sure the wheels are seated flush against the hubs. Lower your vehicle, and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds.

Additional Resources

This video and instructions explain how to replace the front struts on a 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, and 2012 Ford Escape. Maintaining healthy strut is crucial to maintaining your vehicle’s suspension system, as they help stabilize your Ford’s handling, braking, and more. Signs that your strut assembly is worn out includes excessive rocking, poor handling, prolonged braking time, bottom out, or if you notice cupping wear on your tires. Failing struts should be replaced as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your Escape’s suspension system or tires.

The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.