Safety Glasses
Nitrile Gloves
Penetrating Oil
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Ratchets
Sockets
Breaker Bar
Flathead Screwdriver
Caliper Hanger
Wire Brush
Silicone Break Grease
Caliper Compression Tool
Bleeder Tool
Brake Cleaner
Shop Towels
Today, we'll be installing BrakeBest Select pads and rotors on this 2004 GMC Sierra, and the procedure will be similar on many early 2000s GM trucks, but be sure to know the specifics for your truck before getting started. If you’re not completely comfortable doing this yourself, we’d be happy to recommend a professional technician in your area.
Step 1: Jack Up Your Vehicle and Remove Wheel
Park on a level surface. Carefully remove the plastic caps on your lug nuts with a 21mm socket, if your truck has them. Jack up the front end and put it on stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Step 2: Remove the Slide Bolts
Remove the two caliper bolts with an 18mm socket and breaker bar. You may need a T55 star tool to remove these slide bolts. Slide out the two caliper slide bolts and set aside.
Step 3: Remove Caliper from the Brake Rotor
Take the caliper off the rotor and use your caliper hanger to secure it out of the way without putting pressure on the brake line.
Step 4: Remove the Old Brake Pad
Now, you should be able to remove the old brake pads.
Step 5: Remove the Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolts
Remove the two caliper mounting bracket bolts, one upper and one lower, with a 21mm socket.
Step 6: Take the Mounting Bracket Off
Take the mounting bracket off and set it aside.
Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Rotor
Remove the rotor from the hub. You can use a hammer to loosen it if the rotor will be replaced, or two long M10 bolts threaded into the smaller holes on the rotor to force it off of the hub.
Step 8: Clean the Hub
Clean any rust off of the hub with a wire brush.
Step 9: Apply Silicone Brake Grease to the Hub
Adding silicone brake grease to the hub before installing your new rotor will make it easier to remove when it’s time to change it again.
Step 10: Wipe New Brake Rotor with Brake Cleaner
Use brake cleaner and a rag or shop towel to wipe down both sides of the new rotor.
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Do It Right: Any time you use brake cleaner, remember that it will strip paint, including painted hats on your rotors, so be careful where you spray it. |
Step 11: Place the New Rotor on the Hub
Install the rotor and use a lug nut to hold it in place while you continue to work.
Step 12: Clean and Inspect the Brake Caliper Bracket
Clean the brake caliper bracket with brake cleaner where the brake pad hardware clips and brake pads will sit. Inspect the caliper bracket for rust before reinstalling.
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Do It Right: If it’s rusty where the pads of the brake hardware ride, it needs to be replaced. You can clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner, but don’t use a steel brush on it. |
Step 13: Reattach the Caliper Mounting Bracket
Reattach the caliper mounting bracket with the two 21mm bolts. Torque the bolts to 120 foot pounds.
Step 14: Apply Silicone Grease to Brake Pad and Place
Lubricate the contact points on the new brake pads with 100% silicone grease and put them into place on the caliper mounting bracket.
Step 15: Apply Silicone Grease to Sliding Bolts
Apply silicone grease to the bolts as well.
Step 16: Clean Caliper Pistons
Now, clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a shop towel or rag.
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Do It Right: If the rubber boot is cracked or if there’s brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced. |
Step 17: Compress the Brake Calipers and Open/Close the Bleeder Valve
Attach your one-man bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve by turning it counter-clockwise. Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp or brake caliper compressor tool. When you’re done, the piston should be flush with the housing. Re-tighten the bleeder valve, being careful not to let any air into the line.
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Do It Right: Use an old brake pad to protect the pistons |
Step 18: Reinstall the Slide Bolts
Reinstall the two caliper slide bolts using your 18mm socket (or T55), then torque them to 90 foot pounds.
Step 19: Reconnect the Brake Line
Reconnect your brake line. Now it’s safe to remove the lug nut you used to keep the rotor in place while you were working, and the caliper hanger from the wheel well.
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Do It Right: It’s almost always a good idea to change pads and rotors in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side. |
Step 20: Reinstall the Wheel
Straighten the steering wheel and put the wheels back on. Tighten the lug nuts so that the wheels are flush against the rotors.
Step 21: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts
Lower the Vehicle. Use your 22mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque them to 120 foot pounds.
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Do It Right: Once the job is complete, before you drive anywhere, be sure to pump your brake pedal several times until you feel the pressure return. It should feel the way it did before the brake job. If your brake pedal does feel spongy, you probably have air in one or both of your front brake lines. Here’s a link to a video on how to bleed those lines to remove the air. |