Safety Glasses
Nitrile Gloves
Ratchet and Sockets
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Flathead Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Caliper Hanger
Rust Penetrant
Brake Cleaner
Shop Towels
Caliper Piston Tool
Silicone Grease
Wire Brush
Jack
Jack Stands
Brake Fluid (Vehicle Specific)
One-Person Bleeder Tool
12mm Box Wrench
Except in unusual circumstances, you should always change pads and rotors in pairs, so repeat these steps on the other side.
Step 1: Remove Your Old Brake Pads
Loosen the lug nuts on your front two wheels, but leave them in place on the bolts.
Chock your rear wheels, engage the parking brake, and jack up the front end of your vehicle and put it on stands, then remove the lug nuts all the way, and take off the two front wheels.
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Do It Right: Turning your steering wheel to the side will make it easier to see and work in the wheel well. |
Use a 12mm box wrench to loosen the two caliper mounting bolts, starting with the one at the bottom, then the top one. Once they’re loose, remove them by hand, making sure you hold the caliper in place so it doesn’t fall.
Use your caliper hanger to secure the caliper out of the way above the rotor, so there’s no pressure on the brake line while you work.
Remove the hardware springs by squeezing them, and slipping them off.
Remove the old brake pads. This may cause the piston to retract slightly.
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Do It Right: If a pad doesn’t come out easily, you can use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry it out. |
Step 2: Remove Your Old Brake Rotors
Now, you’ll use a ratchet and 17mm socket to loosen the two caliper mounting bracket bolts.
Remove the bolts by hand, bottom first, then the top one, making sure to hold the bracket in place.
Once the bolts are completely removed, you can slip the bracket off, and set it aside.
Once the bolts are completely removed, you can slip the bracket off, and set it aside.
Use a large Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the rotor against the hub. It’s possible these screws will be missing if the rotor has been changed before, and that’s OK. If they are there and don’t loosen easily, some rust penetrant or an impact screwdriver will help.
With those screws removed, the rotor should slide off the hub. If the rotor isn’t wanting to slide off the hub, there are threaded holes here on the rotor… where you can use an 8 x 1.25mm bolt to push the rotor off.
Compare the old rotor and brake pads to your new ones to make sure they look identical except for wear.
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Do It Right: If the mounting surface of the hub or the bolts are rusty, clean them with a wire brush before installing the new rotor. |
Step 3: Install the New Brake Rotors and Calipers
Brake rotors are oiled for shipping, so use brake cleaner and a rag to wipe the oil off both sides of your new rotor before installing it. Brake cleaner will strip paint, so use it carefully, and if your rotor has a painted hat, be sure to keep brake cleaner off that area.
Now you’re ready to put the rotor on the hub. Make sure the two threaded holes are in the right orientation, slide it back into place, and rethread the screws. Again, if you don’t have them, that’s OK. Their function is to keep the rotor in place against the hub while you work, so just tighten them by hand if you have them. If you don’t, or if they were damaged or destroyed coming out, you can use a lug nut on one of these bolts to hold the rotor against the hub.
Inspect the caliper bracket for rust before reinstalling it. If it’s rusty where the pads or the brake hardware ride, it needs to be replaced. You can clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner, but don’t use a steel brush on it.
Check the caliper guide pins to make sure they slide freely. If they don’t, remove them to check for pits and rust. If they have either, they need to be replaced. Rust indicates their zinc coating is missing, and rust will spread quickly, even if the pin is greased. Lubricate your clean caliper guide bolts with 100% silicone grease before reinstalling them.
Check the caliper guide pins to make sure they slide freely. If they don’t, remove them to check for pits and rust. If they have either, they need to be replaced. Rust indicates their zinc coating is missing, and rust will spread quickly, even if the pin is greased. Lubricate your clean caliper guide bolts with 100% silicone grease before reinstalling them.
Grease the contact points on the caliper mounting bracket. Put the bracket back in place, and finger-tighten the bolts.
Then tighten these bolts to eighty foot pounds.
Then tighten these bolts to eighty foot pounds.
Now, clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag.
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Do It Right: If the rubber boot is cracked or if there’s brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced. |
Step 4: Install the New Brake Pads
Attach your one-man bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve by turning it counter-clockwise.
Use a caliper piston tool or C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper
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Do It Right: Use an old pad between your caliper piston and C-clamp. The old brake pad will protect your caliper piston as you compress it back into the caliper to make room for your new pads, since they’ll be thicker than the old pads. |
The caliper piston should be flush with the caliper housing. Be sure not to pinch the boot, and be sure not to push on the piston itself when you do this. As you compress the piston, old, discolored brake fluid and small particles of dirt will be discharged. Again, be careful not to get brake fluid on painted surfaces, since it can damage paint.
Re-tighten the bleeder valve, being careful not to let any air into the line. If any air gets into this line or the line on the other side when you change the pads and rotor on that side, your brakes will feel spongy and will need to be bled.
Now that the piston is compressed, grease the contact points of the first new pad… and clip it into place. Then, grease the contact points of the other side and clip it into place. The pads should be flush against the rotor, and the piston should be flush with the caliper.
Install the spring clips at the top and the bottom of the pads.
Remove the caliper from its hanger and put it in place over the brake pads, making sure it lines up with where you’ll bolt it to the mounting bracket.
Finger-tighten the bolts at the top and the bottom of the caliper. Once they’re in place, they can be torqued to thirty-seven foot pounds with a twelve millimeter socket.
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Do It Right: Don’t forget to remove your caliper hanger from the wheel well. |
Straighten your steering wheel back out to reinstall your wheels and finger-tighten the lug nuts so that the wheels are flush against the rotors.
Once the vehicle is lowered, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to eighty foot pounds.
Once the vehicle is lowered, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to eighty foot pounds.
The automotive repair work depicted in this series is performed under the direction of the manufacturer of the product featured. Prior to undertaking any of the demonstrated repairs on your vehicle, we suggest you consult with a certified mechanic or another professional who can adequately advise you of the proper repair or remedy required. O’Reilly Automotive Stores, Inc. and its affiliates (“O’Reilly”) disclaims any responsibility for injury or damage resulting from a viewer’s attempt to recreate the repairs shown in this series.