Safety Glasses
Gloves
Brake Rotors
Brake Pads
Brake Hardware
Brake Cleaner
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Flat-Head Screwdriver
Breaker Bar
Caliper Hanger Tool
Socket Set
Thread Locker
Shop Towels
Caliper Piston Tool
One-Man Bleeder Tool
Wire Brush
Synthetic Caliper Grease
Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle
Park on a flat surface and chock the wheels that will remain on the ground. Use a jack and jack stands to safely lift your vehicle.
Step 2: Remove Lug Nuts and Wheel
Loosen and remove the lug nuts. After the lug nuts are removed, remove your wheel.
Step 3. Locate and Remove the Caliper Mounting Bolts
After lifting the vehicle and removing the wheel, locate and remove your caliper bolts. Some models may have guide pins that are threaded to receive the caliper bolts, or the caliper may be directly mounted to the knuckle. This 2008 Ford Escape also has an anti-rattle clip that needs to be removed before your caliper bolts can be accessed.
Check your manufacturer’s specifications in your owners manual for the appropriate size of socket, Torx, or hex tool you need for removal.
Check your manufacturer’s specifications in your owners manual for the appropriate size of socket, Torx, or hex tool you need for removal.
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Do It Right: Sometimes it’s difficult to see the head of the pin, since it faces the motor. Turning the wheel all the way left or right will allow you to see the pin better. These bolts or pins may or may not be exposed—they may have plastic or rubber caps that need to be removed. |
Step 4: Check for Rust
After removing the guide bolts or pins, check them for pits and rust. If they have either, they need to be replaced. Rust indicates the protective zinc coating is missing, which will allow rust to spread quickly, even if the pin is greased.
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Do It Right: If your caliper has a separate bracket, you may also need to remove the bolts that hold it against the knuckle. Caliper brackets often have internal caliper guide pins that should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for rust. If the guide pin and rubber dust cover is in good shape, it can be lubricated with fresh brake grease and reinstalled. Damaged or stuck pins or dust boots should be replaced. |
Step 5: Remove the Caliper and Old Brake Pads
Have your caliper hanger in place. Remove the caliper and hang it to keep pressure off the brake line. This model has a retaining clip that needs to be removed before the caliper can be taken off.
Remove the outside pad. If it's clipped on, you may need a screwdriver to remove it. The inside pad will stay on the caliper so you can use it to compress the piston.
Remove the outside pad. If it's clipped on, you may need a screwdriver to remove it. The inside pad will stay on the caliper so you can use it to compress the piston.
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Do It Right: Check the brake pads for abnormal wear. If you’re replacing your pads with BrakeBest brake pads, the box has a brake pad wear chart for reference. The chart shows the possible causes for abnormal wear that could indicate a larger issue and may need to be addressed. |
Step 6: Remove the Rotor
Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts and bracket so the rotor can be removed. On this vehicle, we're replacing the rotor. But if you're reusing the rotor, mark both the rotor and the hub so that you can replace it in the same orientation. You may need a hammer to tap the rotor loose, but only use a hammer if you’re replacing the rotor because it can damage its surface in the process.
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Do It Right: Your rotor may have a set screw that was used to hold it in place during vehicle assembly. It can be removed and discarded. |
Step 7: Measure for Brake Rotor Thickness (If reusing your rotors)
It's best to replace your rotors, but reusing them is still an option if necessary. A new, OE quality brake rotor will help your vehicle stop faster and more smoothly, will be easier to install and will help your brake pads last longer.
If you are reusing the rotor, any rust needs to be removed from inside the hat with a wire brush to ensure the rotor mounts flush against the hub for smooth braking. Once the rotor is off, if you decide to reuse the rotor, it's highly recommended you have the braking surface thickness measured. Rotors experience the same wear as brake pads. Any O'Reilly Auto Parts store can measure your rotors for you, and many of them perform rotor resurfacing.
If you are reusing the rotor, any rust needs to be removed from inside the hat with a wire brush to ensure the rotor mounts flush against the hub for smooth braking. Once the rotor is off, if you decide to reuse the rotor, it's highly recommended you have the braking surface thickness measured. Rotors experience the same wear as brake pads. Any O'Reilly Auto Parts store can measure your rotors for you, and many of them perform rotor resurfacing.
Step 8: Clean the Area
Use a wire brush and a wheel stud brush to remove rust from the hub and lug bolts so the rotor will seat properly. Inspect the caliper bracket for rust. If it’s rusty where the pads or the brake hardware ride, it needs to be replaced. You should clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner, and avoid using a wire brush on it, as this can worsen corrosion and cause the brake pads to stick.
If you’re installing a new or resurfaced rotor, wipe the rotor braking surface with brake cleaner, but never use brake cleaner on a painted rotor hat as it can strip paint.
If you’re installing a new or resurfaced rotor, wipe the rotor braking surface with brake cleaner, but never use brake cleaner on a painted rotor hat as it can strip paint.
Step 9: Install the New Rotor
Install your new rotor, and wipe it down one last time with brake cleaner. You can use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you reattach the caliper mounting bracket.
Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Mounting Bracket and Bolts
Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and bolts. We recommend greasing the contact points on the hardware and brake pads first. Your vehicle’s service manual can provide torque specifications for your caliper bracket mounting bolts and the caliper guide pins or bolts, and will indicate whether or not you should use a thread locker product during reassembly.
Step 11: Wipe Down the Caliper Piston
Clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag. If the rubber boot is cracked or if there’s brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced.
Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston
Attach your one-man bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve by turning it counterclockwise. Use a caliper piston tool or C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You’ll need to use an old brake pad between your caliper piston and C-clamp to prevent damage to the piston. The old brake pad will protect your caliper piston as you compress it back into the caliper to make room for your new pads since they’ll be thicker than the old pads. The caliper piston should be flush with the caliper housing. Be sure not to pinch the boot, and be sure not to push on the piston itself when you do this.
When compressing the caliper piston, old, discolored brake fluid and small particles of dirt will be discharged. Again, be careful not to get brake fluid on painted surfaces—it can damage paint.
When compressing the caliper piston, old, discolored brake fluid and small particles of dirt will be discharged. Again, be careful not to get brake fluid on painted surfaces—it can damage paint.
Step 13: Remove the Inside Brake Pad
Tighten the bleeder valve. After it is tight, you can remove the bleeder tool and the inside brake pad.
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Do It Right: Do not open the master cylinder cap, and do not depress the brake pedal when the piston is being pushed into the caliper when the bleeder screw is open. This can allow air into the brake system and require brake bleeding. If you're replacing the rear disc brakes, some vehicles require a special tool, Universal Brake Piston Reset Discs, because the piston screws in instead of pressing in like the front brake calipers. |
Step 14: Install New Brake Hardware
Grease all metal-on-metal contact points, making sure not to put any grease on friction surfaces. If your brake pads came with new stainless steel hardware or clips, install them now.
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Do It Right: Brake hardware is designed to last for the duration of one set of brake pads—the hardware is metal, and flexes each time the brakes are applied. Eventually, it loses its flexibility, and worn-out hardware is the number one cause of brake noise. So, it’s always recommended you install new brake hardware when you change pads. If you’re not sure which side of the pad goes against the surface of the rotor, look at the old pads for reference. |
Step 15: Install the Caliper with New Brake Pads
Lubricate your clean caliper guide bolts or pins with 100% silicone grease, insert or thread them by hand, and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Check to make sure the pads are against the rotor and that the piston is flush with the caliper. Never force the caliper and pads over the rotor—if the caliper doesn’t fit, make sure the caliper piston is flush with the caliper housing. If you used a lug nut to hold the rotor in place, you can remove it now.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheel
On this vehicle, we’ll replace the outer anti-rattle clip. Put any caps back on the caliper guide bolts or pins. Put the wheel back in place and hand-tighten the lug nuts, making sure the wheel is seated flush against the hub. Lower your vehicle, and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Step 17: Repeat Steps
Repeat these steps on the other side.
Step 18: Test Your New Brakes
Once the job is complete, test your brakes by pumping your brake pedal several times until you feel the pressure return. It should feel as good or better than it did before the brake job. Make sure to do this before you drive anywhere.
Step 19: Break In the New Pads
Check your master cylinder and add fluid as needed. To help break in the new components, it’s a good idea to test drive your vehicle and perform a brake pad bedding procedure. This involves slowing it 15 to 20 times from 50 to 30 miles per hour with moderate brake pressure, allowing the brakes to cool in between each slowdown. Try to avoid aggressive stops during this break-in process. Your brakes will probably smell after you’ve done this, and that’s okay. If the odor persists past 500 miles or so, or if you have excessive dust on one wheel, you may have a stuck caliper.
